A Smokehouse

Radio interview source: Cameron Faustman, animal science professor, University of Connecticut

Build a smokehouse in 11 easy steps

This smokehouse holds more meat and is less expensive than store-bought smokers. It was designed by Cameron Faustman of the University of Connecticut Department of Animal Science, and Alton Blodgett of the Connecticut State Department of Agriculture, and only cost around $170 to build!

Cameron Faustman and Alton Blodgett

Animal Science Professor Cameron Faustman at the University of Connecticut says there's no need to be an accomplished carpenter. That's OK! You want a leaky smokehouse so it vents properly.

"The smokehouses I've built I've just basically vented the top by drilling a couple of 2-inch round holes near the top and also making it so the roof sits a fraction of an inch off the top of the walls so that the air can move on through," Faustman says.

 The high heat might draw the chemicals into your food. Faustman says he uses tongue-and-groove untreated pine.The downside to a wooden smokehouse is that it's flammable. So you have to be careful with your heat source and how you control that.

"You basically put it on a pad that's non-flammable," Faustman says. "So usually that's a gravel pad. In my case what I did was I built a real simple little foundation almost on some concrete piers -- I went way overboard with this. You don't need to do this, you can just put it on a gravel pad."

Install bars in the smokehouse to hang hams or turkeys. You can also lay the meat on metal racks. However, be sure to stay away from galvanized metal.

"Galvanized metal when it gets sufficiently hot will give off a toxic fume," Faustman says. "So you can use just old steel, which unfortunately will rust. You have to brush it with a wire brush, but there's no harm in that. Or, you can use stainless steel."

Click here for step-by-step instructions for building this smokehouse.

Step 1: Cut the sides of the smokehouse

Faustman and Blodgett recommend tongue-in-groove pine untreated unstained because it is easy to work with and cost effective. Where needed, the tongue on the outside edge of walls can be removed with a utility knife. Do NOT use pressure-treated lumber, since smoke that comes in contact it will contact your food. The heat and smoke are produced by using different types of wood chips and sawdust. Buy them rather than cutting down trees. Although it's a very tiny amount, oil from the chainsaw will leak into the wood chips and sawdust.

Fit and clamp together 5 boards, with the edge groove facing front and the tonghe (removed) facing the back. Measure the front height to be 6', and the back 5'9". Snap a chalk line between measurements to make an angled top line. Cut with a circular saw. Repeat in mirror image for the other side.

Step 2: Frame the top and bottom of the side pieces

Using a table saw, rip 2"x8"x8' boards to create 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" framing pieces. Cut one to 25 3/4" in length and fasten along the inside bottom edge using galvanized deck screws. Cut another framing piece to fit the sloping top, with angles cut to make the front and back facing pieces flush. Repeat in mirror image for the other side.

Step 3: Frame the back of the side pieces

Fasten an additional 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" framing piece along the back edge of each side panel, between the top and bottom framing pieces. This is where the back wall will be attached. Repeat in mirror image on the other side. Now you should have two identical side pieces that are a mirror image of each other

Step 4: Construct the back and fit to sides

Construct the back wall panel just as you did the side panels, but with all 5 boards cut to 5'9" in length. Fasten 21 1/4" framing lumber to the top and bottom of the inside back wall. Stand the sides and back together on a flat surface. The back should fit within the framing pieces of the side walls.

Step 5: Square it up

Measure to make sure the front portion of the smokehouse is square. Fasten 2"x4" cross braces to the front of the two side panels. Notch brace ends to accommodate the ends of the top and bottom framing pieces of the side panels.

Step 6: Finish the front

Rip 1"x6" pieces of pine board to be 3 1/8" wide for dressing the 2"x4" cross braces on the top and bottom. Position these pieces flush with the top and bottom brace edges, leaving about 1/2" of the top and bottom cross braces exposed, to serve as a door stop.

Step 7: Install shelf supports

Cut 8 shelf supports from the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" board to length, and fasten four to the inside walls of each side panel, at the exact same heights. Check to be sure they are level. Here, the top of the first support was placed 18" above the floor, and the remaining supports were located with their top edges 14" above the support below.

Step 8: Build your door

Construct the smokehouse door from the remaining 5 pieces of pine, and cut to length so the door will fit snugly between the top and bottom pine pieces on the front. Fasten the door together using 1" thick boards in a "Z" formation, leaving room along the edges for the door to close completely. Fasten the door to the smokehouse using two 4" strap hinges.

Step 9: Add the roof and shelves

You can use a variety of materials for the smokehouse roof. Here, a piece of sheet steel was fastened to the top edges with screw, leaving a gap about the thickness of a Popsicle stick between the sides and roof for venting. Do not use galvanized metal. For these shelves, the builders used expanded steel reinforced with angle pieces around the perimeter. Be sure to clean steel pieces before placing food on them.

Step 10: Consider the draft

In order for your smokehouse to work properly, air must be able to draft in from the bottom and exit the top. Controlling this determines the heat build-up and degree of smoke in the house. Faustman and Blodgett placed their smokehouse on a small stone foundation that provided space for air to draft in the bottom. They drilled a couple of 2" diameter holes near the top of each side and just under the roof.

If the base of your smokehouse is tight to the foundation or sits on a gravel pad, drill two 2"-diameter holes near the base of each side. To further control draft, you can install galvanized steel electric junction box covers to cover the holes and act as dampers, adjusting accordingly. Screen ventilation holes in the inside to keep pests from entering the smokehouse. If desired, drill small holes into the sides to accommodate stem thermometers.

Step 11: Fuel your smokehouse

Faustman and Blodgett purchased a single-burner liquid propane system. This type of heat source, they believe, makes it easier to regulate temperature than external stove-like systems. The propane tank is set outside the house, with the burner inside. They placed an old cast-iron pan on the burner, and filled it with hardwood chips and sawdust to produce smoke. They recommend apple, hickory, or alder wood

Your smokehouse is ready to use!

Faustman and Blodgett offer these smoke-cooking tips:

• Start at 120 degrees F. and slowly increase the temperature over several hours. Keep the internal temperature of the smokehouse at or under 180 degrees F.
• If you are smoke-drying meat to create jerky or dried salmon, use a slower, more gradual heating method.
• The door can be opened slightly, if needed, to control the temperature.
• Remember the wooden smokehouse will burn if ignited, so supervise your smokehouse while in use.
• The wooden door may warp a bit during use, "burping" open and allowing heat and smoke to escape. If needed, use a hasp located halfway down the door's length to secure the door.
• Meats with a bit of fat smoke-cook better than lean cuts. Marinate meats before cooking, or inject meat cuts with dilute brine using a large needle.
• Treat cooking surfaces with a vegetable oil spray before placing meat on them. Do not spray near an open flame.
• Keep an eye on wood chips or sawdust throughout the smoking process, and replenish as needed.

http://www.livingthecountrylife.com/country-life/food/build-smokehouse-11-easy-steps/

Smoked salmon and trout

Faustman and Blodgett say their favorite meat to smoke is trout and salmon. For 12 pounds of fillets, they prepare a brine consisting of 1 liter of inexpensive vodka, 12 oz. lemon juice, 4 lbs. brown sugar, and 5 cups of salt. Spread over the flesh side of the fillets. If layering in a pan, place flesh sides together. Place brined fillets in the refrigerator for 1 1/2 to 2 days. Briefly wash the fillets in cold water to remove surface salt and sugar, and smoke for 5 or more hours (depending on desired level of smokiness). Start with the smokehouse at 120 degrees F., and work up slowly to 180 degrees F. to finish the process.

Visit the link below to get the recipe for our maple-smoked salmon fillets, pictured here.

Maple-Smoked Salmon fillets

 6 - 8 alder or apple wood chunks

1 pound fresh or frozen salmon fillet (with skin), about 1-inch thick
1/2 cup pure maple syrup
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon coarsely cracked mixed peppercorns
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

1. Thaw salmon, if frozen. Rinse salmon and pat dry with paper towels. At least 1 hour before smoke cooking, soak wood chunks in enough water to cover. Drain before using.

2. Place salmon in a resealable plastic bag set in a shallow dish. For marinade, in a small bowl combine the 1/2 cup maple syrup, the water, peppercorns, and salt. Pour marinade over salmon; seal bag. Marinate in refrigerator for 1 hour, turning bag occasionally. Drain salmon, discarding marinade.

3. In a smoker arrange preheated coals, drained wood chunks, and water pan according to the manufacturer's directions. Pour water into pan. Place salmon, skin sides down, on grill rack over water pan. Cover and smoke for 45 to 60 minutes or until fish begins to flake when tested with a fork. Brush salmon with the 2 tablespoons maple syrup. Cover and smoke 5 minutes more. Makes 4 servings.