Build Raised Bed Garden Easy

building lasagna raised bed garden
http://alternative-energy-gardning.blogspot.com/2013/02/building-lasagna-raised-bed-garden.html

Raised Beds inside fence

Raised Beds inside fence

rugged-life.com

Coffee Cubes

Freeze leftover coffee in ice cube trays for use later in "iced" coffee recipes.

I do this but cut the entire coffee mixture in 1/2 and then place 1 coffee

ICE CUBE in my garden --- between plants, mostly my corn for the nitro.

Grow Potatoes in Containers

100 POUNDS OF POTATOES IN YOUR BACK YARD

Container gardening isn’t only for savvy urban gardeners and folks with limited space to grow, it can also be for folks who want to maximize their yields in a controlled environment. Not only does growing potatoes in a barrel reduce the amount of weeding and exposure to pests and fungi, you don’t even have to risk shovel-damage to the tender potatoes by digging them out of the ground when they’re done, just tip the container over!

After extensive research to plan his own potatoes-in-a-barrel, Tim fromGreenupgrader.com boiled all of the recommendations down to 4 simple steps to a winning potato harvest.

1. Select and prepare a container

You’ll need to pick out a container such as a 50-gallon trash barrel or one of those half whiskey barrel planters. Alternatively, you can buy used food-grade barrels or commercially-available potato planters. Just about any 2 to 3-foot tall container will work, but be sure to select a container that either already has holes in it, or is okay to cut holes in. Next you’ll want to clean your container with a mild bleach solution to get out any of the nasties that have been lingering in there.

Good drainage is critical for the cultivation of healthy potatoes so you’ll want to cut or drill a series of large drainage holes in the bottom and bottom sides of your container. Alternatively, you can cut out the bottom altogether and place it on a well-drained surface like your garden bed.

2. Choose a variety and plant potatoes

Seed potatoes can usually be found at nurseries early in the growing season, but you should only have to buy them once. If you can, “chit” or sprout your potatoes before planting them by setting them out in an egg carton, the side with the most buds facing up, and putting them in a cool light room out of direct sunlight to sprout. Putting the tubers in an open paper bag can have this same effect.

Fill in the bottom of your container with about 6 inches of loose planting mix and compost. You’ll want to use a planting mix with a peat moss-like soil amendment like this product made from repurposed coconut husks, doing so will keep the soil from becoming too compacted and help it to store moisture for the roots. Next, add some seed potatoes on the layer of soil, making certain to leave plenty of space between each cube. You can use the whole potato but I like to cut the potatoes into 1 to 2-inch cubes for planting. Loosely backfill the potatoes with another 6 inches of your soil and compost mix and water to dampen soil. Keep the soil damp at all times but be careful not to overwater.

3. Add more soil

When they have about 6 to 8 inches of foliage, add another layer of your soil-compost mix covering about one-half to three-quarters of the visible stems and foliage. Repeat this process of allowing the sprouts to grow and then covering the sprouts and moistening the soil as the plants grow up toward the top of the barrel.

4. Harvest the potatoes

After about 10 weeks or until the plants flower and start to yellow, the potatoes should be ready to harvest. Carefully dig down with your hands to inspect the top-most layer. After you’ve confirmed your suspicions, dump the barrel out on a tarp and inspect your bounty.

Other tips to grow bushels of barrel potatoes

• After the first harvest, keep a few potatoes to use as seed potatoes next year.
• Bush beans are a great companion plant for potatoes.
• Instead of using soil, try growing potatoes in sawdust..
• Experiment with different containers, seed potatoes and watering regimes.
• Have any photos or useful tips for growing potatoes in a barrel? Please share!

http://mattovermatter.com/2011/07/how-to-grow-100-pounds-of-potatoes-in-4-steps/

Bananas N Egg Shells N Garden

 Bananas N Egg Shells N Garden

*Clean dry egg shells
*DRY banana skins
* 2 TBSP baking soda
*1/3 cup USED coffee grounds
Grind together in food processor.

Use as:
- mulch
-top soil
- a large batch and put in empty #10 can
-1 teaspoon full of dry mix into water can for garden 

-seal and use all season long
-mix into compost
-sprinkle on garden after first snow, let it soak in during winter!

Dry banana peels between two window screens laying out in sun.
Vent them by placing them on cinder blocks.
Bring them in at night to avoid moisture.
Tear to thin strips - dry quicker.
Place on black garbage cans - for quicker drying. 




You need approximately 5 pounds of dried banana peels for every 100 square feet of soil to see benefits in plants.

 

Tea Bag In Garden

Tea Bags In Garden






~ Used tea bags ? Garden loves them.
*Bury them in the soil
*Tear them opened and sprinkle the tea all over the soil
*Put them in compost pile
*Many use them in their worm boxes too, I'm just starting worm box - so I'll let you know how that goes.

Coffee And Grounds In Garden

Coffee And Grounds In Garden

 
  photo from Folgers site. THANKS Folgers......my plants LOVE YOU.
*I don't drink coffee . I buy it at lowest price . NO flavored coffee, NO decaf.
*Plants love coffee.
*I make coffee (outside it gives my spouse asthma attacks).
*1 cup coffee - cool
*4 cups water
*Dump all around garden, never on the roots. If you are going to put on the roots use 5 cups water.

~~Coffee Grounds -
*I take them to my corn mostly ~ but I do bury some in each area of garden.
*1/3 cup coffee grounds mixed in 4 NEW cups of soil sprinkled on top of soil.

COMPOST
* I use coffee grounds from friends too ~ they go to my compost.

Crushed Egg Shells In Your Garden

Crushed Egg Shells ALL Over Your Garden...




*Crush your egg shells.
*Put them in your soil.
*When you crack an egg to fry / scramble rinse them.
*If you hard boil eggs KEEP the water - cool and use water in garden..
*I tuck them away in my soil, everywhere - all over my garden, in my garden containers -from March - the first snow (October).
*Remember DO rinse them out. The bugs love them if you don't and you DO NOT want bag bugs moving into your garden spaces.
*Keep your eggs from winter, rinse, dry & keep in a zip plastic bag.

Water Your Plants When Not At Home Cheaper

Water Your Plants When Not At Home Cheaper





























 A little improvement - tread the exposed string into straws to lower evaporation into the air.

Maybe elevate the water source higher than the plant, moist seeks lower level due to gravity.
(HomeMadeIsEasyblogger)

 http://snapguide.com/guides/water-your-plants-when-youre-away/
 

Water Bottle Upcycled to Sprinkler

PHOTO CREDIT unknown

Raised Bed Garden Extended Growing Season

Build a raised bed cloche in 8 steps

 Learn to construct a covered raised garden bed in 8 easy steps, for around $200.

Sam Angima and Bill Biernacki, Oregon State University Extension  TEXT COPYRIGHTS. Jan 2013

Extend the growing season

A cloche is a glass bell jar that is set over individual plants, acting as a mini greenhouse and extending the growing season,

especially in cooler regions. This raised garden bed is built with a cover, essentially a cloche that covers an entire bed!

It is best suited for growing tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, melons, and other crops that need to be planted after danger of frost and generally mature late in the season.

Follow these directions to build a structure approximately 8 feet long and 4 feet wide at the base, and 5 feet high at the center.

Adjust the length by increasing or decreasing the length of the boards and number of PVC hoops, and alter the length of the polyethylene plastic appropriately.

The cost for materials is about $150-$250.

Gather your materials

Before you begin, compile all your materials. Label the boards as indicated.

• 2 A boards: 2-inch x 12-inch x 8-foot boards, treated with water-based preservatives
• 2 B boards: 2-inch x 12-inch x 4-foot boards, treated with water-based preservatives
• 3 C boards: 2-inch x 4-inch x 8-foot boards, treated with water-based preservatives
• 8 D boards: 1-inch x 4-inch x 10-foot boards, treated with water-based preservatives (to be cut to fit)
• 1 piece of 6-mil polyethylene plastic sheeting, 9 x 10-foot wide (cloche sides)
• 2 pieces of 6-mil polyethylene plastic sheeting 5 x 5-foot (cloche ends)
• 3 10-foot lengths of 0.75-inch schedule 40 PVC (hoop supports)
• 1 rubber bungee cord, 18 inches long
• 20 schedule 40 PVC clips (see Step 4/Detail. Obtained by sawing off one-third of a section of 1-inch PVC)
• 0.5 lb (approximate) 3-inch galvanized or stainless steel screws
• 0.5 lb (approximate) 1.5-inch galvanized or stainless steel screws
• 12 0.75-inch galvanized pipe straps
• Hand saw
• Appropriate screwdriver (preferably a power drill)

Step 1: Build the frame

Attach the two B boards to the ends of the two A boards using 3-inch screws at each end.

Cut six lengths of 11.5 inches each from one of the C boards and attach them to the inside of the longer side of the cloche frame you have just made. 

Use 3-inch screws to attach one 11.5-inch board in each corner and one on each side,

centered in the middle and flush with the bottom. These short pieces will support the corners and serve as anchors for the PVC ribs.

Option: Add support to the corners

You may add outside corner metal straps to the corners to further stabilize the raised bed base

Step 2: Add PVC hoops

Slowly bend each of the three 0.75-inch, 10-foot PVC hoop supports into each corner and one in the center to shape the arch of the cloche.

Secure each hoop flush at the bottom of the anchors using the 0.75-inch pipe straps and 1.5-inch screws.

Detail: Pipe straps

Use two galvanized pipe straps on each side, making sure ribs are vertical.

Instead of using pipe straps, you can attach sections of 1-inch PVC pipe to the anchors and just insert and

anchor the0 .75-inch hoops into these sleeves if you prefer.

Step 3: Build the backbone

Lay one of the D boards across the top of all three hoops, creating the top backbone and support of the cloche.

Check that the backbone is level and that the three hoops (ribs) touch the bottom of the backbone.

The ribs can be adjusted by loosening the pipe straps and making the necessary adjustment.

Measure the height of both ends of the frame from the bottom of the frame to the bottom of the backbone to make sure they are equal. 

You will use this information in the next step.

Step 3, continued: Build the backbone

Cut two C boards to the length measured in the last step (approximately 51 inches) and attach them to the outside of each end,

centered and flush with the bottom of the frame (B boards), using 3-inch screws. Cut the backbone to make its ends flush with

the C boards just placed (approximately 8 feet, 4 inches).

Attach each end of the backbone, flush to the outside of both vertical C boards, using 1.5-inch screws.

Check to make sure each PVC hoop is vertical and secure with a 1.5-inch screw down through the backbone and rib.

The remaining seven D boards can be cut to the same length as the backbone.

Step 4: Cover the ends

Open, spread, and attach the 5x5-foot plastic sections of the 6-mil polyethylene plastic sheeting to both ends using the

PVC clips, five on each side. Make sure the plastic covers the entire end, and tuck the plastic against the inside of the frame.

Detail: Make PVC clips

Make the PVC clips by sawing off a third of a section of 1-inch PVC. Pull plastic tight and make adjustments,

being careful that clips do not dig into the plastic. Trim extra plastic but leave a good 6 inches of excess.

Detail: Trim as needed

The plastic should be tucked against the end of the frame and trimmed to fit.

Step 5: Add the top cover

Drape the 10'x10' piece of 6-mil polyethylene plastic sheeting over the hoops, making sure each end and the

bottom sides are even. Do not trim excess plastic until later.

Step 6: Secure the plastic

Place another D board on top of the backbone, sandwiching the plastic between the two, and screw down using 1.5-inch screws.

Step 7: Hold the sides in place

For the side plastic curtains, use one D board on the inside of the plastic curtain and another on the outside,

sandwiching the plastic in the middle. Screw the D boards tightly together, resting on the frame, using 1.5-inch screws.

Curtain should hang with no slack. Trim excess plastic, leaving 6 to 8 inches of overhang below the sandwich assembly.

The overhang prevents rain from entering the cloche. Repeat on the other side.

For more wind resistance, you can wrap the plastic once around the first D board and then sandwich it with the other D board.

You also can attach a hook to the outer D board at each end and two hooks to the frame.

Attach bungee cords between the two hooks to prevent wind from flapping open the curtain.

Step 8: Finishing touches

For added strength and support, attach a D board to each rib (or hoop) on each side about 10 inches down from the

top of the backbone using 1.5-inch screws.

Attach the rubber bungee at the top center of the cloche.

When the side curtain is rolled up, the bungee will hold it in place.

Detail: Opening the cloche

Attach the bungee cord at its center to the backbone.

This will hold the rolled-up plastic for easy access to both sides of the raised-bed cloche.

One last tip

The cloche can get very warm on sunny days, especially. You may want to cut and leave open the top 6-12 inches of each end to allow for ventilation.

Photos and text copyright Oregon State University. Used with permission from Angima, S., and Biernacki, B. 2008.

How to Build Your Own Raised-Bed Cloche.

EC 1627. Corvallis, OR: Oregon State University Extension Service.